Laughing women in vivid saris and strappy high heels ferried equally well-dressed children to the restrooms. Men gathered in knots along the wall, venturing on occasion to a small kiosk where a server produced sweet paan for all takers, laying out an array of fresh betel leaves and smearing them with lime paste, then spices, rose jam and anisette before rolling them up.

The very presence of the kiosk seemed to signify that we were in good hands. So heartened, we claimed our reservation.

And we were right. Akbar is a good Indian restaurant. Service was friendly without being cloying; food arrived in a timely fashion and at correct temperatures. That understanding likely comes with practice. Akbar, which opened in 1993, is the product of a second-generation restaurateur, Pradeep Malhotra, and his wife, Meenakshi. A restaurant on Long Island by the same name is owned by Meena Chopra, Mr. Malhotra’s sister. The first Akbar, in Midtown Manhattan, was run by A. N. Malhotra, the siblings’ father, from 1976 to 1993.

The dining room, separated from the merrymakers by heavy glass doors, is a rectangular space with well-appointed tables; in the center is a kind of box housing several fountains. We sat on banquettes during both visits. One was satisfactory; the other seemed to have sagging springs.

With the menus, the server brought a platter of papadum and two dipping sauces — a bland yet heavily salted mint sauce, and a relish that was recognizably onion despite a cranberry-red hue that came from paprika, Mr. Malhotra said in a telephone conversation.

Appetizers were better. Chicken tikka and spiced, ground lamb kebabs, both on what the menu calls the nonvegetable platter, were a table favorite. Mulligatawny soup was not chicken and vegetable, but a delicious lentil purée. And the cucumber salad with tomatoes and onions disappeared in moments.

The sautéed Mughlai corn played sweet kernels against diced onion, green peppers and fresh ginger; the papdi chaat, a typical street or party food, was nicely balanced, its bits of house-made crisp-fried wheat shell layered with potatoes, chickpeas, onions, yogurt, mint and tamarind.

The kathi roll, stuffed with potato, carrot, cabbage, peas and onion, was a larger and more interesting version of a baked egg roll; cut into slices, it was made for sharing. Pan-fried mango shrimp were tender and juicy, but too sweet.

With a couple of exceptions, main courses were good, though two dishes in creamy sauces — Kashmiri lamb pasanda and murgh korma — spiked to very good. Hyderabadi-style minced lamb with green chilies was even better, with pure flavors at play.

Palak paneer was a fine counterpoint of fresh spinach studded with pieces of soft cheese. Twice-cooked eggplant (baingan bharta) was enlivened with peas and tomato; okra (kurkuri bhindi) was slivered lengthwise, marinated and deep-fried to crunchy effect. Both dals, yellow lentil (tadka) and brown (makhani), were hearty and well balanced.

Less successful was the tandoori pomfret, which was advertised as a whole Atlantic pompano. Our serving was two tiny ones, maybe four inches long, for $21. The goat biryani was marred by bone fragments.

As for the sweets, carrot halwa, with its strong aroma of vinegar, seemed more side dish than dessert, and shahi tukda, billed on the menu as bread pudding, tasted like milky cream of wheat and noodles. Though masala tea is the most satisfying ending to a meal, tutti-frutti, with nuts and fruit, is a standout ice cream — sweet and creamy, and exotic enough to lure us back.

WORTH IT

THE SPACE Large dining room with fountains, seating 95 people. Complete wheelchair access.

THE CROWD Noisy and casual, including many children; efficient servers.

THE BAR Full bar. List of about 20 wines by the bottle, $20 to $42 (Champagne, $26 to $260). House wines by the glass, $7.

THE BILL Lunch buffet, $9 on weekdays and $11 on weekends. Dinner entrees, $9 to $21. MasterCard, Visa, American Express, Discover and Diner’s Club accepted.

WHAT WE LIKED Chicken tikka, lamb kebabs, mulligatawny soup, cucumber salad, Mughlai corn, papdi chaat, kathi roll, Kashmiri lamb, pasanda, murgh korma, Hyderabadi-style minced lamb, palak paneer, baingan bhurta, kurkuri bhindi, tadka dal, dal makhani, masala chai, tutti frutti ice cream.

IF YOU GO Lunch daily, noon to 3 p.m. Dinner, Sunday through Thursday, 5:30 to 10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 5:30 to 11 p.m. There is a parking lot next to the building, but valets encourage the use of their services. Reservations recommended on the weekends.

RATINGS Don’t Miss, Worth It, O.K., Don’t Bother.

Published by NY times